Rowing the dingy across the harbor to land, my two younger
cousins in tow, I am excited to explore uninhabited Garden Island, one of many
islands found in the Beaver Island archipelago off the coast of Michigan. It is
July of ’74 and I am just barely 14 years old, sailing the waters of northern Michigan with my aunt and uncle. As I come ashore and disembark with
my cousins, we soon find ourselves in thick woodlands, traversing overgrown
footpaths. It is dim and dark under the cover of forest and I have decided of
all things, to seek out the Native American cemetery, clearly identified on the
map of the island my uncle had lent me. Maybe today I would have hesitated
before making such a decision, understanding that cemeteries carry with them
the energy and spirit of those who have passed. Wanting to make sure that it
was respectful to visit such a place. But on this day, full of curiosity, I
walk boldly into the clearing that holds the cemetery. Immediately I know I am
in a special space as I can feel energy of the place hit me head on. Before me
are about 20 spirit houses, little lodges built up off the ground, imbibing me
with an ethereal feeling I have not been able to forget all these years later.
Over the years I have done a bit of research on the
cemetery and discovered it was an Anishinaabe burial ground, more than likely
from the Ottawa tribe. Upon talking to a member of the Ottawa tribe just
recently, he confirmed to me that the Ottawa lived on Garden Island for many
years. The tribes of the Great Lakes, the Ojibway, Algonquin, Ottawa,
Potawatomi, Saulteaux, Nipissing and Mississauga, as well as some Oji-Cree and
Metis communities, are known as the Anishinaabe. These tribes share cultural
traditions and kinship ties but have their own identities and independent
leadership. The Ottawa tribe, also known as the Odawa, have made their home in
this part of Michigan since before the Europeans arrived. They had summer
quarters in the northern part of the state and then traveled to the southern
part of Michigan to overwinter. Because the lake offered the best form of
travel, communities lived along the water rather than inland. The terms Grand
Traverse Bay and Little Traverse Bay have roots in the Native American
vernacular in that they referred to the size of the traverse needed to be made
across the openings that formed bays as one was traveling by canoe along the
lakeshore.
Just last year, I attended an Odawa Pow Wow up the street
from me. It was a magical day filled with beautiful dress, dance and music. I
was so happy to experience a part of their rich cultural heritage and am
thankful they are here as a part of our community. But in reality, I am simply
a visitor here on their reservation land. A large section of northwest Michigan
is Odawa reservation land with a lawsuit pending that will allow them to gain jurisdiction
over this land once again. Keeping my fingers crossed for them.
References:
Ottawa Adaptive Strategies to Indian Removal By James
M. McClurken
History of the Ottawa
and Chippewa Indians of Michigan:
Michigan State
University, Native Americans in the Great Lakes Region:
Tribal History of Little
Traverse Bay Bands of Odawa Indians:
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